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Clean RV Water Heater For Optimal Performance And Longevity

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OUTDOORSY | RVSHARE | RVEZY

Keeping up with regular RV maintenance helps dodge those wallet-draining repairs down the road. One job that really matters? Taking care of your RV water heater.

Over time, minerals, rust, and gunk build up inside the tank. This mess cuts down heating efficiency and sometimes makes your water smell funky. I’ve seen it more times than I’d like.

A simple cleaning routine keeps your system humming and helps it last longer. Honestly, it’s not hard, and your future self will thank you.

If you’ve got a tanked water heater or one of those on-demand units, get to know how yours works. Each model—Suburban or Atwood—has its quirks.

Learning your setup means you’ll pick the right tools and method. Trust me, a little effort cleaning your RV hot water heater pays off every season you hit the road.

How to Clean Your Atwood RV Water Heater

Tools Needed

Before you get started, gather a few basic tools. You’ll want a water heater tank rinser or flush wand to blast out mineral buildup, plus an air compressor for clearing junk from the burner.

Grab a 7/8-inch socket or wrench for the drain plug. It’s a simple kit, nothing fancy.

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Tool Purpose
Water Heater Tank Rinser Flushes out loose sediment and mineral buildup
Air Compressor Blows debris from the burner area
7/8-inch Wrench Removes and tightens the drain plug
Funnel Helps when adding cleaning solution like white vinegar and water

Step 1: Shut Off Power to the Water Heater

First things first: turn off all power and fuel to your Atwood water heater. Unplug the electric line, shut off the propane, and disconnect the battery.

Make sure water isn’t feeding the heater, and run your indoor taps to be sure the water’s cooled off. This way, you won’t scorch yourself or get zapped.

Step 2: Release Stored Pressure

Pop open the exterior access panel and find the pressure relief valve. Lift its lever to let out any built-up pressure inside.

Keep it open a few seconds until the hissing stops. This stops water from spraying everywhere when you pull the drain plug.

Step 3: Remove Dust and Soot

Fire up the air compressor and gently blow out the burner tube and chamber. I usually spend about a minute on this.

Clear burners work better, and you’ll avoid heat loss from trapped dirt.

Step 4: Drain the Tank

Loosen the drain plug with your wrench. Hold the relief valve up as you finish unscrewing it.

Let the tank drain completely into a safe spot. This washes out old water and heavy sediment.

Step 5: Flush the Tank Interior

Hook up the tank rinser or flush wand to your garden hose. Stick it in the drain opening and move it around while the water runs.

Go after those mineral deposits. If the buildup is stubborn, fill the tank with a mix of white vinegar and water (check the RV Forum Community for the ratio).

Let it soak for a couple hours, then rinse again.

Step 6: Reinstall the Plug

Once the tank’s empty, pop the drain plug back in by hand. Give it a snug twist with your wrench.

Lower the relief lever. Don’t crank it too tight—just enough to seal it.

Step 7: Wipe Down the Exterior Components

Wipe down the water heater compartment with a damp rag and a mild cleaner. Focus on the grime, but keep moisture away from electrical bits.

Most RV folks flush their water heater at least once a year, as The Smart RVer suggests. Regular cleaning keeps things running strong and wards off mineral clogs.

How to Clean Your Suburban RV Water Heater

Tools You’ll Need

Before you start, gather the essential tools for the job. You don’t need anything fancy, but a few basics make this job easier.

Tool Purpose
Water heater rinsing wand Flushes out sediment and buildup inside the tank
Air compressor Clears debris from the burner area
Replacement anode rod Protects the tank from corrosion
1-1/16 inch socket wrench Removes and installs the anode rod
All-purpose cleaner and rag Wipes the exterior and components clean

Having these tools nearby will keep things moving.

Step 1: Shut Off Power and Fuel

Switch off the power supply and propane so the heater can cool. Test the hot water at a sink to make sure it isn’t still warm.

Once it’s cooled off, unplug your electric hookup, turn off the propane, and shut the water pump. Safety first.

Step 2: Release Pressure from the Tank

Open up the outside access panel. Lift the pressure relief valve lever to vent any built-up pressure.

Wait a few seconds for steam or water to escape. This keeps you from getting blasted when you drain it.

Step 3: Remove Dust and Debris

Use your air compressor to blow out the burner chamber and tube. Road dust and outdoor grit love to hide here.

Aim the nozzle into the chamber for a minute or two, but don’t get too close—no need to damage anything.

Step 4: Drain the Water Heater Tank

With the pressure gone, grab your socket wrench and loosen the anode rod at the bottom.

Hold the pressure valve open as you pull the rod out. Let all the water drain into a container or onto the ground if that’s allowed in your area.

Step 5: Rinse the Tank Interior

Attach the rinsing wand to your hose and poke it through the anode rod hole. Move it around as the water runs to flush out sediment.

Need more detail? Check out this RV water heater flushing guide. Once the water runs clear, shut off the hose and let it finish draining.

Step 6: Install a New Anode Rod

After the tank’s empty, slide in your new anode rod. Hand-tighten, then snug it up with the wrench.

Lower the relief valve lever and check that it’s all good. A fresh anode rod keeps the tank from rusting out.

Step 7: Wipe and Inspect the Heater

Spray a bit of all-purpose cleaner on a rag and wipe down the outside. Watch out for electrical parts.

Get rid of grime and dust, then close the panel and reconnect power and propane. Your Suburban RV water heater should be ready for the next adventure.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I clean my RV’s water heater?

Give your RV’s water heater a good cleaning once a year. I like to do it when the camping season wraps up, right before winterizing.

This routine keeps things clear and lets you spot any issues before they get bad.

If you run a Suburban water heater, swap out the anode rod every year. It’s a small part but makes a big difference in preventing rust and leaks.

Here’s a quick checklist:

Task Frequency Purpose
Drain water heater Once per year Removes sediment
Flush tank Once per year Clears mineral deposits
Replace anode rod (Suburban models) Once per year Prevents corrosion

Stay on top of these, and your water heater will heat better and last longer.


How do you fill an RV’s water heater?

Most RV water heaters fill up on their own when you add water to the fresh water tank or hook up to a city water line. You don’t need to do it separately.

If the tank stays empty, check the hot water bypass valve. Sometimes it gets left in bypass after winterizing, which blocks water from getting in.

Make sure the valve’s open so water can flow. To check, turn on a hot water faucet and let it run until water comes out steady.


Should I keep my RV water heater turned on?

Sure, you can leave the water heater on—just make sure there’s actually water in the tank. Trust me, running it dry will wreck the heating element or even mess up the tank lining.

Before you flip that switch, fill up your fresh water tank or hook up to city water. I usually let the faucets run for a couple of minutes to push out any air in the lines.

Once you see a steady stream, you’re good to go and can start heating things up.

That little bit of prep keeps your gear in shape and means you won’t have to wait around for a hot shower later.

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