If you want to avoid expensive water damage, keeping up with your RV’s seals is one of the easiest steps you can take. Every joint along your roof, windows, and trim keeps moisture out and comfort in. A high-quality RV sealant closes up those little cracks and gaps that might turn into leaks, mildew, or even bigger headaches down the road.
I always recommend inspecting and sealing your rig regularly. It just makes your travels smoother and your RV lasts longer. Knowing which sealant to use—and where—protects your investment and cuts down on future repairs.
Honestly, once you get the hang of it, maintaining your RV’s seals is just another part of the adventure. It’s quick, reliable, and gives you peace of mind out in the wild.
Best RV Sealant Brand
When you’re picking out a sealant, the brand you trust really does matter. Dicor has a solid reputation for keeping RVs watertight and in good shape.
You’ll spot Dicor on a lot of factory-fresh RVs, since it’s made for surfaces like roofs, vents, and seams. The Dicor Lap Sealant sticks well to rubber and metal, and it doesn’t pack in any nasty air pollutants.
If you like having options, Geocel Pro Flex and Geocel GC28100 Pro Flex RV Flexible Sealant both work great for trim and joints. Sometimes I’ll even reach for a marine adhesive sealant when I know I’ll be dealing with serious moisture.
Brand
Notable Feature
Ideal Use
Dicor
Flexible lap sealant
Roofs and edges
Geocel Pro Flex
Paintable, quick-drying
Windows and doors
Marine Adhesive Sealant
High water resistance
Exterior seams
All of these sealants give you solid protection against rain and wear. They help your RV stay sealed up and ready for whatever the weather throws at you.
If you’re sealing your RV roof, Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant is my go-to. It’s reliable and easy to use. I use it along roof edges, around vents, and over screw heads.
The Dicor 501LSW-1 model levels itself after you lay it down. You don’t have to fuss with smoothing it out by hand, which keeps things tidy and quick.
Compatibility Table
Roofing Material
Works With Dicor Lap Sealant
EPDM Rubber Roof
✅
Aluminum
✅
Vinyl
✅
Wood
✅
Galvanized Metal
✅
You might also try Kohree RV Roof Sealant, Sashco Through the Roof Sealant, or a basic RV roof coating. They all aim to protect your roof and stop leaks. Just remember, self-leveling sealants only work on flat or gently sloped areas.
Match your sealant’s color to your roof for a clean look. Most come in white, gray, black, or beige. Picking the right color keeps your roof looking sharp and helps with UV protection.
When you’re sealing windows and doors, you want something flexible and tough enough to handle all kinds of weather. Dicor Cap Sealant nails it with strong adhesion and resistance to both water and sunlight.
It’s made for window frames, entry doors, and storage bay seams—works on bare or repainted surfaces too.
Sealant Type
Key Features
Best Use Area
Silicone Sealant
Waterproof, elastic
Smooth window edges
RV Flexible Sealant
Long-lasting, UV-resistant
Door perimeters
Geocel GC28100 Pro Flex
Non-sag, paintable
Vertical seams
Acrylic Caulk
Budget-friendly, easy clean-up
Interior joints
Non-Leveling Sealant
Firm texture, precise application
Trim and corners
You can get Dicor’s formula in clear, white, black, or tan, so it blends right in with your RV’s finish. If you want a deeper dive, take a look at this RV seal maintenance guide.
How to Perform RV Seal Maintenance
Keeping up with your RV’s seals keeps leaks at bay and your rig looking good. Regular inspections and quick fixes stop water from sneaking into your roof, windows, and walls.
I check my RV’s seals at least once a month, and always before a big trip. I look for thinning, cracks, or peeling. If I spot a worn area, I clean it well before putting down new sealant.
Safety’s a big deal here. I always use a sturdy ladder and wear shoes with good grip. Only get up on the roof if you feel steady and the weather’s dry.
Resealing the RV Roof
The roof takes a beating from sun and rain, so I check it often. Here’s how I handle roof resealing:
Step
Action
Tips
1. Examine the Roof Seals
Look at seams around vents, edges, pipes, and roof fixtures. Find cracks, chips, or missing sealant.
Use a flashlight for shaded areas.
2. Remove Damaged Material
Scrape off bubbled or loose sealant with a plastic scraper. If it’s only shallow cracks, you can smooth over them.
Avoid damaging the roof membrane while scraping.
3. Clean the Surface
Wash the area with mild soap and water. Rinse and dry completely.
A clean surface ensures the new product sticks well.
Keep the RV dry for two days while it cures. Full curing may take up to a month.
When I apply sealant, I go slow and steady so it flows into every gap. If I’ve got a trip coming up, I leave extra drying time so rain doesn’t mess up the new bead.
Sealing Around Doors and Windows
Doors, windows, and storage hatches are classic trouble spots for leaks. I take my time prepping and applying sealant in these areas.
Inspect the Edges
I check around the frame for peeling, cracks, or gaps. Corners need extra attention—water loves to pool there during rain.
Remove Old Sealant
I use a plastic caulk tool to scrape away anything loose or damaged. For bigger jobs, an oscillating tool speeds things up. After that, I wash the surfaces and let them dry.
Use Painter’s Tape
I put tape above and below where I’ll lay the new bead. This keeps things neat and stops smudges on painted surfaces.
Apply the New Sealant
I load up a flexible, exterior-grade sealant in my caulk gun and run a smooth bead between the taped lines. After a few minutes, I pull the tape for a sharp edge.
Allow Proper Dry Time
I always check the forecast and keep the RV under cover for at least 24 hours, just to be safe.
Staying on top of seal maintenance keeps your RV dry and saves you from big repair bills later. It’s a simple habit that really pays off when you’re out exploring.
FAQs about RV Seal Maintenance
Which sealant works best for RV roofs?
For RV roofs, I always reach for self-leveling lap sealant. It seals up seams, edges, and all those tricky spots around vents and skylights. Dicor’s version stays flexible after curing, so it handles vibration and temperature swings without letting water in.
You’ll usually find lap sealant in tubes. Just cut the nozzle, lay down a bead, and gravity does the leveling. It’s perfect for flat or gently sloped roofs where you want even coverage.
Type
Use
Surface
Self-Leveling Lap Sealant
Roof edges, vents, and screws
Horizontal
Non-Self-Leveling Sealant
Side seams, corners, and trim
Vertical
Which sealant should you use for windows and doors?
For windows, doors, and side seams, I go with cap sealant. It sticks to fiberglass, metal, or even repainted areas, and it holds up to sunlight and road vibration. It keeps water out of those joints without sagging or cracking.
If you’re resealing, scrape off the old stuff, clean the area, and run a thin bead of fresh RV cap sealant for a tight, clean finish.
How are lap sealant and cap sealant different?
Lap sealant is for roof spots like vents and screw heads—basically any horizontal, weather-beaten area. Cap sealant is for vertical seams around doors and windows, where you want a tidy look and a strong hold.
Makes sense, right? Use each one where it shines, and your RV will stay leak-free for miles to come.
What does self-leveling cap sealant mean?
A self-leveling cap sealant is basically a liquid that spreads out on its own after you apply it. You don’t really have to mess with it much—it just settles into a nice, even layer.
I always use it on flat surfaces, never on anything vertical. If you try it on a wall, it’ll just run right down and make a mess.
This stuff gives you a smooth, uniform seal. It’s honestly one of the easiest ways I’ve found to keep an RV leak-free out on the road.
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